Golf Pilgrimage: Coachella Valley
O’Donnell Golf Course
Whenever oil baron Thomas O’Donnell visited Nellie Coffman (a.k.a. the “Mother of Palm Springs” and builder of its first hotel), he found himself pitching and putting in the dirt around her famous Desert Inn. Nellie had been inviting notable people to the desert for a few years by that point, so it made sense to O’Donnell to build the first golf course in the Coachella Valley. You’ve probably never heard of it, but O’Donnell Golf Course still exists, curled up against the back of downtown Palm Springs. The course isn’t open to the public, but its construction sent the community off on a journey toward becoming one of the most iconic golf destinations in the world.
Originally settled by the tribes of the Cahuilla Nation, the valley was overrun by white people by the 20th century. Hollywood stars were especially drawn to the fact that a quiet, dusty moonscape was a drivable distance from busy, built-up Los Angeles, so a flurry of hotel- and second home-building took place between 1920 and 1970. With the arrival of celebrities came the construction of country clubs, and the valley quickly transformed into the kind of place that’s on every golfer’s list. As beautiful as the city is, however, its existence is clearly unsustainable, its hellish temperature on a seemingly never-ending ascent, and its natural sources of freshwater rarely showing face. So the community is faced with an opportunity: convert to eco-friendliness and serve as an example for other desert golf destinations, or change nothing and die a hot, dry, slow death. Anyway! Use this guide to plan a desert trip so enchanting that you, too, will call for and support the kind of action that would ensure its survival for years to come.
Palm Springs
The seeds of Coachella Valley tourism were planted in its northwest corner. Nestled at the foot of the San Jacinto Mountains, Palm Springs features all of the more storied establishments in the valley, with gangsters and golfers being responsible for most of them. The hotels are quaint, the golf courses are short and forgiving, and the main drag that runs through downtown is lined with restaurants and hugged by layer after layer of mid-century modern homes. So it’s legit heaven.
Where to Play
Although I’ve witnessed more than one person pass out playing golf in the 300-square-mile oven that is the Coachella Valley, there are several courses worth the skin-frying. When you golf in Palm Springs, you’re there for the historic courses as opposed to the kinds of long and challenging ones you’ll find farther south. And playing shorter courses is often more enjoyable for the average player, particularly shorter-hitting women. Your best bet is the North Course at Indian Canyons, which was formerly the Canyon Club—the private country club where the Rat Pack and friends used to hang out. It’s surrounded by bright, mid-century modern estates and mountainsides crumbling into a thousand shades of brown. The South Course at Indian Canyons, however, is also a must-play, considering one of its architects is Amy Alcott. Mesquite Golf & Country Club is less historic but is more centrally located. Another option is Tahquitz Creek Golf Resort’s Legend Course—historic but the clubhouse is in desperate need of a zhuzh. If a newer, longer, more challenging course is really what you prefer, try the Nicklaus-designed Escena Golf Club.
Where to Stay
History lovers should book Ingleside Inn, a literal historic landmark built in 1922, Colony Palms Hotel & Bungalows, established by gangsters in 1936, or my personal favorite, the cute yet ghostly Casa Cody, built in the 20’s and frequented by Charlie Chaplin and Anaïs Nin. Newer high-end options include the Parker Hotel, hidden behind a highly Instagrammable decorative block wall, Korakia Pensione, vaguely North African in decor, the Ace Hotel & Swim Club, a magnet for aging hipsters, or Les Cactus, complete with those pink exteriors y’all are so thirsty for. L’Horizon Hotel & Spa is also highly rated but honestly gives rehab vibes. If you’re in the mood to save, however, consider Movie Colony Hotel, The Monkey Tree Hotel, or Skylark Hotel—all comfy, photographable, and affordable.
Where to Eat
Have breakfast at King’s Canyon for late 2000’s hipster vibes. For lunch, grab a fat roast beef sandwich at Sherman’s Deli (eat on the patio, inside is dated in a bad way), a burger at Tyler’s (the building is almost a hundred years old and was once a gas station), or something more complicated at The Tropicale, a hot spot bursting with gays and bachelorette parties. For a casual dinner, get Vietnamese at Rooster and the Pig, Thai at Pepper’s, or Mexican at Las Casuelas (Original location for the history, Terraza location for the patio). If you need something fancier, head to Mr. Lyons (classic yet updated decor plus steaks), or Spencer’s (nice patio-with-a-view situation).
Après Golf
Sunnylands—former home of the Annenbergs, also known as the Camp David of the West—is a great golfer/nongolfer date. Enjoy some mid-century modern architecture, walk through a desert garden, and have a look at the collection of golf balls lost by presidents over the years on the family’s private 9-hole course. A more physical endeavor is the Araby Trail Hike—a somewhat steep trek that’ll get you a great view of Bob Hope’s iconic spaceship style home (it’s a private residence so that’s as close as you’re going to get). Other activities include Modernism Week, the Palm Springs Art Museum, the Palm Springs Air Museum if you’re into… like… planes, or the Palm Springs Film Festival.
The view from Araby Trail (peep the golf cart)
Rancho Mirage, Palm Desert, & La Quinta
About a fifteen minute drive south of Palm Springs, Rancho Mirage and Palm Desert consist of the more recently built homes, hotels, and courses that have spilled over the Palm Springs border during its growth spurts, but there is plenty of charm and character if you know where to look. La Quinta is much quieter than the northern parts, but it’s home to some iconic locations that must be experienced at least once, including what the PGA calls its “Western Home of Golf in America.”
Where to Play
Indian Wells and Desert Willow feature multiple pretty, challenging-in-a-fun-way, and affordable courses. For beginners, consider Palm Royale, a super well maintained 18-hole 3-par course. La Quinta, the PGA West courses, and the Palmer-designed SilverRock are your best options if you’re farther south. For a fun, one-time experience, play The Lights at Indio. Probably not the best use of electricity, but yeah.
Where to Stay
If you’re in a position to splurge, the Ritz-Carlton in Rancho Mirage or the Sands Hotel & Spa are obvious choices. Book La Quinta Resort & Club if you prefer to stay farther south. Built in 1926, it’s not only historic and beautiful, but it served as the backdrop of Tayshia’s season of The Bachelorette. On the more affordable end is the Mojave Resort—a recently renovated mid-century modern motel painted a few different shades of orange. This creamsicle of a lodge is located a couple blocks off El Paseo—the main drag lined with shops and restaurants.
Where to Eat
For breakfast—specifically, unreal pancakes—head to Keedy’s Fountain & Grill, frequented by locals since 1959. Get there early (we’re talking 7-7:30 a.m.) so you can snag a patio table among the tracksuit-clad locals, as inside is a bit fluorescent. Once you’ve played a round and gotten hungry again, grab a hearty sandwich at The Lunch Spot (so casual it doesn’t even have a website). The brother and sister who run it are super chill and locals working in the surrounding industrial park seem to vouch for it day after day. Once you’re stuffed, head to a pool, take a nap, then get ready for a fancy dinner at Jillian’s. If a night on the town is what you’re after, head to Little Bar (favorite of the local, younger crowd) or The Nest (it’s exactly what it sounds like—the main watering hole for thirsty desert hens). But if you want guaranteed entry to The Nest’s bar and dance floor rather than a spot in the hours-long line, you had better eat dinner there. If you’re in La Quinta, stop at Shields Date Farm for a date shake before grabbing a proper meal at Tack Room Tavern.
Après Golf
The primary reason to visit this part of the valley has always been spectating The Dinah. Also known as the “women’s Masters,” this LPGA major has been held at Mission Hills Country Club every spring since 1972. You watch the world’s best pound their drives down Bermuda covered fairways and stick their approaches on hard desert greens, then cheer as the winner jumps into the iconic Poppie’s Pond—a tradition started by Amy Alcott in 1988. But now that the tournament is moving, the thing to do is book a round at the course, then pay your respects at the wall of plaques displaying the names of the winners. Club Skirts Dinah Shore Week, the lesbian extravaganza rooted in a decades-long tradition of gay women loyally spectating the tournament is still going strong and a reason to visit. Other fun events include Indian Wells Masters tennis tournament, Palm Springs Pride Festival, and Coachella.
Photos by Amanda Corr