Golf Pilgrimage: Ojai

Nestled among the Topa Topa Mountains about an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles, Ojai serves as the perfect weekend getaway for Central and Southern Californians, and a must-stop for anyone on a road trip up or down the Pacific Coast. The city took on a reputation as a healing mecca as early as the 1920’s after an Indian philosopher claimed to have experienced a spiritual awakening upon arrival. New Agers flocked to the valley in the 70’s, reinforcing this image, and it remains to be a destination for vegans, yogis, crystal collectors, and the like. The attraction could also stem from a rumor that the town is built upon a Native American (Chumash) burial ground—white people’s favorite explanation for anything remotely out of the ordinary.

Overshadowed by all of this is the fact that Ojai features two golf courses designed by two of the most iconic architects in golf history: Ojai Country Club by George C. Thomas of Los Angeles Country Club, Riviera, and Bel-Air fame in 1923, and Soule Park Golf Course by William F. Bell, architect of Brookside, Sandpiper, and Torrey Pines, in 1962. Experience these two courses and you can start to understand why Ojai should be considered a historic golf destination and an ideal weekend trip, especially for parties that include nongolfers.

Where to Play

There are only two courses in Ojai, making the golf aspect of your trip an easy plan. They’re minutes away from each other, so you could play both in a day, but you’re there to chill and recharge, so space it out. Just be sure to tee off at the crack of dawn so you can watch each hole creep out from the shadow of Black Mountain as sunlight pours into the valley. It’s worth it and you can nap later.

Soule Park Golf Course: Visit the Soule Park website and find yourself greeted by a classic Arts & Crafts movement themed logo—a sample of the vibes you can expect to feel while you’re in town. Zaidee Soule (1878-1963), Ojai’s longtime librarian and daughter of rancher Cyprus Soule (1828-1890) who bought the land in 1873, bestowed it upon the county for recreational use in 1959, declaring that “the beautiful spot will never be subdivided” and “will remain as one place for the people of Ojai to enjoy it as we have enjoyed it” (Ojai Valley Museum). Appropriately, William F. Bell, of the first family of California golf course architecture, was hired to design the course in 1962. It grew into disrepair over the following decades until it flooded in a 2005 storm, prompting extensive reconstruction. Gil Hanse led the project, intending to restore the original Bell design. And while some of the original bunkers were later filled in at the request of a few local geezers, it has since been lauded as one of the best, most affordable courses in California. Also renovated was the clubhouse, which now gives modern rustic cabin and features a top-notch restaurant named—with love—Zaidee’s.

Ojai Country Club: Take the highway a little farther west to find the course that was originally called Ojai Country Club, but now exists as a mere feature of Ojai Valley Inn & Spa. The resort markets—and prices—the course as a George C. Thomas masterpiece, one he called “as far and away above the best of them” in a 1925 interview. But as Garrett Morrison of The Fried Egg has suggested, the course, as Thomas designed it, no longer exists. Originally designed to honor the terrain of the valley floor, it suffered neglect during the Great Depression, was repurposed as a training camp during World War II, and became of secondary concern to the hotel owners as the years progressed. In the 1980s, the nines were reversed and many of the original holes were later bulldozed to make way for hotel expansion. Two botched renovations later, the course is nearly unrecognizable when compared to Thomas’s original routings. It’s a shame the course has been altered so dramatically, but your spine will still tingle when you walk over the ghosts of the original holes, and at the end of the day, the surrounding natural beauty will still put a smile on your face.

Where to Stay

If you’ve got the dough, stay at Ojai Valley Inn & Spa. It’s a 5-star resort with Spanish style architecture, a zen-ass spa, and a glimmering pool—basically, a Nancy Meyers film in hotel form. It’s connected to Ojai C.C. so you’ll pay a slightly lower rate and travel a slightly shorter distance than if you stayed elsewhere. More reasonably priced yet equally charming, with its rustic summer-camp-for-grown-ups vibe, however, is Ojai Rancho Inn. If you’d rather be based near Soule, the Capri Hotel is a recently renovated, mid-century modern motel located right across the street. Finally, Ojai Retreat & Inn gives white grandma’s house—low key and soothing but a bit flavorless.

Where to Eat

For a small town, Ojai offers an amazingly wide range of cuisines. Breakfast options include the healthy Love Social Cafe, Sage Ojai, and Home Kitchen of Ojai. Beacon Coffee Roasters is good if you need something quick. For a post-golf lunch, head to Pinyon, Ojai Tortilla House, Yume Japanese Burger Cafe, or Farmer and the Cook. For a fancier lunch or dinner, try The Dutchess (delicious Burmese Californian style meals), Nocciola (it’s got a bougie yet rustic covered patio), or The Ranch House (sophisticated garden vibes). If you’re jonesing for a long, casual dinner and the weather’s nice, Ojai Rotie serves locally sourced Californian food on a mission style patio. However, you're obligated to eat at Zaidee’s in the Soule Park clubhouse for at least one pre- or post-golf meal—the massive bar window folds open so you can look out over the course and it’s got the coziest fireplace.

Après Golf

Ojai features several solid things you can do before or after you play, or that the nongolfers in your group can do without you. Spend a morning hiking to Meditation Mount to clear your head, then cool your feet in a natural spring (Ecotopia is currently closed due to Covid, but will hopefully reopen soon). Head back to the hotel for a swim or a shower, then shop along Ojai Avenue before parking it at a cute lunch spot. Hit Bart’s Books if you want to support the largest outdoor book shop in the country, or consider horseback riding with Western Trail Rides or Ojai Valley Trail Riding Company one afternoon. Get a facial or massage at Ojai Valley Inn & Spa, then finish off the day beer tasting at Topa Topa Brewing Company (it’s got a great Asian fusion tapas situation inside called Little Sama—baby sibling of Sama Sama restaurant in Santa Barbara) or wine tasting at The Ojai Vineyard Tasting Room. And choose where you end your day wisely—the “pink moment,” Ojai’s extra rose-hued sunset, is a sight to behold. Lastly, if you’re leaving on a Sunday, pop by Ojai Farmer’s Market to grab snacks for the car ride home.

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